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Payday Paydown & Engines

June 9th, 2014 at 02:16 pm


I put $100 back for the hay I need to buy. Now all my misc expenses are covered! Hurray! It is possible I might not even need all that I put back, but I wanted to be safe.

$50 to car payment.

Only able to put $35 in trip fund. But now that the misc expenses are out of the way, hopefully I will be able to put more back before the trip. Only a few more weeks to go.

Cobalt engines are turning out really hard to find! We have been looking for months, and none of them have been suitable. Finally found 2, but can not decide which to go with.

#1 has $85k miles and will cost $1,250 counting shipping. Has a 30 day warranty. From salvage yard.

#2 has $50k miles and is only $650. It is within driving distance, so we can go look at it, and watch it run. No warranty. From individual.

I am scared to go without a warranty... But #2 is half price, and we can go see it in person, so surely if it runs okay there, it will be fine... Ugh. I am not sure.


4 Responses to “Payday Paydown & Engines”

  1. Kiki Says:

    Is this the Cobalt you were trying to sell? Most warranties aren't transferrable when a car is sold unless you pay another fee or more for the warranty so why does it matter? It also sounds like the warranty is driving up the price of the engine compared to the private seller.

    Go with the cheaper engine.

  2. snafu Says:

    Given the amount of work involved and cost when paying the hourly rate of mechanic, the salvager is obviously betting there will not be a return whatever the outcome with the engine. What history can the private seller provide? What up-to-date info are you getting from GM for the list of Cobalt inadequacies?

    Sorry, my knowledge of cars is minimal but wonder if it's worth the time and cost to see the cheaper engine and talk to the owner...possibly negotiating the asking price since these specific cars are a big negative just now.

  3. Looking Forward Says:

    I don't think a 30 day warranty is very valuable. Esp. to be such a large cost difference.
    So my vote is the one that is cheaper and you can check out in person.

  4. klarose Says:

    Well after talking with both of them more, we have decided not to go with the cheaper engine. Frown We found it has been sitting for 5 years, and also it was a roll over accident. So it is possible there is some damage to inside of the engine, either from sitting too long or oil getting into it from rolling.

    The other engine is from a t bone accident, and looks better in shape. I hate to buy one for twice as much, but I think its better to be safe than sorry. And I was counting on paying $1,500 to replace the engine. They lowered the price to $1,150 so counting the $400 to put it in that will put me right around my target cost.

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